TY - JOUR
T1 - Non-invasive analysis of natural textile dyes using fluorescence excitation-emission matrices
AU - Selberg, Sigrid
AU - Vanker, Elsa
AU - Peets, Pilleriin
AU - Wright, Krista
AU - Tshepelevitsh, Sofja
AU - Pagano, Todd
AU - Vahur, Signe
AU - Herodes, Koit
AU - Leito, Ivo
N1 - Funding Information:
This research was funded by the Estonian Research Council grant ( PRG1198 ), by the EU through the European Regional Development Fund under project TK141 “Advanced materials and high-technology devices for energy recuperation systems” (2014-2020.4.01.15–0011). This work was carried out using the instrumentation at the Estonian Centre of Analytical Chemistry ( www.akki.ee ). The authors thank Dr. Viljar Pihl who organized the making of the measurement chamber. The authors thank Heige Peets from the Conservation and Digitization Centre Kanut for her help with the case study samples.
PY - 2023/1/15
Y1 - 2023/1/15
N2 - Multidimensional fluorescence spectroscopy was assessed as a non-invasive and non-destructive method for the analysis of components in natural textile dyes. Results demonstrate that components in the natural dyes fluoresce and wool's intrinsic fluorescence is, in many cases, not a considerable analytical interferent. In the case of some self-dyed reference yarns, like those dyed with northern and lady's bedstraws, wood horsetail, safflower, salted shield lichen, dyer's madder and cochineal, the fluorescence excitation-emission matrices (EEMs) are sufficiently characteristic for using them as a primary means of identification (or assignment to a family of dyes). With most of the studied yellow and green dyes (heather, silver birch, some bloodred webcap treatments, alkanet), however, the spectra can be used as additional information for identification. This study reports multidimensional fluorescence data for a collection of wools dyed with natural dyes (31 dyed wool yarn samples that were self-dyed with 18 different natural dyes) that were used as references in a case study of two historical textiles for which liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry was used as a confirmatory technique. Given its utility as a rapid and non-destructive/non-invasive method with information-rich multidimensional EEM output, the front-face fluorescence spectroscopy of surfaces using a fiber optic probe is a promising technique for the analysis of dyes on cultural heritage textiles.
AB - Multidimensional fluorescence spectroscopy was assessed as a non-invasive and non-destructive method for the analysis of components in natural textile dyes. Results demonstrate that components in the natural dyes fluoresce and wool's intrinsic fluorescence is, in many cases, not a considerable analytical interferent. In the case of some self-dyed reference yarns, like those dyed with northern and lady's bedstraws, wood horsetail, safflower, salted shield lichen, dyer's madder and cochineal, the fluorescence excitation-emission matrices (EEMs) are sufficiently characteristic for using them as a primary means of identification (or assignment to a family of dyes). With most of the studied yellow and green dyes (heather, silver birch, some bloodred webcap treatments, alkanet), however, the spectra can be used as additional information for identification. This study reports multidimensional fluorescence data for a collection of wools dyed with natural dyes (31 dyed wool yarn samples that were self-dyed with 18 different natural dyes) that were used as references in a case study of two historical textiles for which liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry was used as a confirmatory technique. Given its utility as a rapid and non-destructive/non-invasive method with information-rich multidimensional EEM output, the front-face fluorescence spectroscopy of surfaces using a fiber optic probe is a promising technique for the analysis of dyes on cultural heritage textiles.
KW - Front-face fluorescence spectroscopy
KW - Historical artifacts
KW - Multidimensional fluorescence spectroscopy
KW - Natural textile dyes
KW - Non-invasive analysis
UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?scp=85136306458&partnerID=8YFLogxK
U2 - 10.1016/j.talanta.2022.123805
DO - 10.1016/j.talanta.2022.123805
M3 - Article
AN - SCOPUS:85136306458
SN - 0039-9140
VL - 252
SP - 1
EP - 11
JO - Talanta
JF - Talanta
M1 - 123805
ER -